I arrived in Riksgränsen in the early 1990s to meet the first group of SBO candidates. Even then, I was impressed by their dedication and discipline. Before my visit, I had several phone calls with Johan Arnegård. He had written a thesis at the Swedish School of Sport and Health Sciences in Stockholm, where he investigated the need for a Swedish mountain guide training programme. At the time, I was the training director for the British Mountain Guides. Arnegård had contacted me to ask for help in developing the SBO.
My task was to lead them on the long road toward membership in IFMGA. Arnegård and another aspiring mountain guide, Dick Johansson, had for some time been working to establish a professional Swedish mountain guide organisation. After several discussions and meetings with various stakeholders, SBO was founded in 1990. This was an important first step towards their long-term goal of becoming a full member of IFMGA.
The next step was to develop training programmes and examinations to bring an initial group of candidates up to the very high IFMGA standard. I was pleased to be able to contribute, but also recognised the great responsibility involved in this task, especially in meeting the high expectations. I remember pointing out to Arnegård during our conversations that it could take up to ten years to gain acceptance into the IFMGA.
I was curious about the level of the first candidates and whether they would be open to my suggestions and training ideas. Shortly after meeting them, I realised they were a group of highly experienced and talented future guides. The task of guiding them through the various disciplines required by IFMGA — such as off-piste skiing, ski touring, alpine climbing, rock and ice climbing, navigation, and avalanche risk assessment — would be much easier than I had expected. All were highly receptive and motivated to work hard with the goal of eventually being accepted by the IFMGA.
The fundamental difference between a talented individual and a professional mountain guide lies in the additional qualities required — especially empathy and an awareness of how to create meaningful experiences so that all guests can fully enjoy the mountains. These are the most important aspects of professionalism and require a significant shift in approach and mindset, which is a key part of mountain guide training.
The task of bringing SBO to a level where they could apply for IFMGA membership placed considerable pressure on my working methods. To be accepted by IFMGA, there could be no doubt in the assessment of the first SBO candidates during the admission process. With that in mind, I became a very tough instructor. In my defence, I had limited time to ensure we would succeed — well, that’s my excuse anyway. Still, the mindset and behaviour of a mountain guide developed quickly, even within the first group. Above all, it is about considering what kind of experience the guide can offer their guests.
Over the following years, I also had the privilege of getting to know the Arctic landscape of northern Sweden, the Sámi culture and cuisine. Most of all, I met many enthusiastic aspiring mountain guides, all passionate about the mountains and eager to share their experiences. Exploring the ridgelines and glaciers of Kebnekaise, opening new rock and ice climbs in Norway, or being awestruck by the magnificent northern lights during night-time navigation exercises — these are just some of the many experiences I will carry with me forever.
In 1994, Arnegård finally submitted SBO’s application for membership in the IFMGA. We were now confident that the first group of five candidates had reached IFMGA levels in all required disciplines. Over the next three years, up to 1997, three more groups began their training. During these years, representatives from the IFMGA attended many of the training courses and examinations. They assessed, evaluated, and reported back to the IFMGA board. SBO continued to develop its training and examination programmes as it progressed. The number of members gradually increased to a level where the organisation eventually became self-sufficient in terms of trainers and examiners.
In November 1997, SBO was unanimously accepted as a full member of IFMGA during a ceremony in Austria. It was an emotional moment witnessed by Johan Arnegård, Dick Johansson, and myself, among others. It also marked the end of many years of hard work. I had estimated that it would take ten years, but in just seven, SBO had succeeded in reaching IFMGA status. This was clear proof of the strong vision and deep commitment of the pioneers led by Arnegård and Johansson.
It’s now 35 years since the founding of SBO, and they are soon celebrating 30 years as a member of the IFMGA. Today, the number of members has grown to a sustainable long-term level. I know that the core principles of a mountain guide have remained the same: humility and empathy, a passion for the mountain environment, and a high level of competence are timeless hallmarks. I am proud to be an honorary member of SBO. I cannot think of better people than SBO’s mountain guides to share my days in the mountains with. I encourage anyone with the opportunity to do the same.














